Finally, we appear to be moving toward the convergence of Good Cooper and Evil Cooper. So in honor of the grinning and occasionally mystical FBI agent and his soulless demonic doppelganger, may I suggest:
Gorman Winery’s “The Evil Twin” Cabernet-Syrah Blend (Red Mountain) $65
First, there is a lot of oak going on with this wine. Like it needs some time to come together? See where I’m going there? Aged in all-new barrels (I’ve refrained from taking this pathetic cheap shot before but… Coopers! Get it? Barrels? Anyhoo…), the wine evinces a slightly overwhelming ration of baking spice and tannic notes that will mellow out with some time. The fact that it’s not all the way there is exactly why it’s perfect for this tense juncture in the series-we still taste the raw materials, the components, rather than a fully-realized whole. Blackberry and citrus notes provide a part musky-sweet, part tart finish. You can tell that time is going to make a big difference in this wine-but it’s got a powerful, yet slightly disjointed feel that you sense is just about to come together into something really intense and interesting.