Known as the Venice of Asia, Suzhou is situated along a series of labyrinthine canals. Its refined beauty holds a yesteryear quality that offers a glimpse of what China was like before growth and development transformed this country at breakneck speed. Suzhou’s wealth of glorious gardens adds a poetic touch to the cityscape. Nine are designated UNESCO World Heritage Sites, so the greatest tourist risk is floral overload.
After you’ve satisfied your soul with enchanting flowers and romantic boat rides, it’s time to satiate your appetite. Suzhou is revered throughout China as a culinary supernova. Thanks to its abundant waterways, the quality and variety of fish is noteworthy, translating directly onto your plate with a bounty of aquatic delicacies.
This traditional city is just far enough off the Beijing-Shanghai tourist track to feel like a bona fide discovery, yet is located a mere 30 minutes from Shanghai via high-speed rail. Here’s what to do when you get there.
Allison is a travel and food writer based in NYC. Her work has been published in The New York Times, off Metro, Dave’s Travel Corner and Family Travel Forum.
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1. The Humble Administrator's Garden
Classical Chinese gardens strive to create miniature landscapes that highlight the delicate balance between man and nature. The Humble Administrator's Garden takes this yin and yang philosophy to the next level. In the venerable tradition, it combines rocks, water, trees, plants and pavilions in perfect proportion. Expect a manicured, manipulated beauty of precise floral placements, attention to every minuscule detail and striking design. Ingenious planting techniques assure that something is always in bloom.
Photo courtesy of Suzhou Tourism
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2. Suzhou Museum
Internationally recognized architect I.M. Pei traveled to his ancestral hometown to design this showpiece museum. Though born in Guangzhou, his family was from Suzhou and youthful summers spent here strongly influenced his work. The Suzhou Museum's sophisticated design concept is simultaneously traditional and avant-garde, preserving Suzhou's heritage while looking toward the future. The luminous Pearl Pillar of the Buddhist Shrine is an ancient Buddhist relic and a collection highlight. Another must-see is the jade-colored lotus-shaped bowl from the Five Dynasties, classified as a national treasure by the Chinese government. Additional visual treats include a vast collection of ceramics, precious cultural relics, intricate woodcarvings and a fragrant lotus pool.
Photo courtesy of Suzhou Tourism
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3. Squirrel Fish
This deep-fried, whimsical wonder steals the epicurean spotlight. The freshwater flavor is sublime, but the playful presentation and evolved aesthetic is what makes it so memorable. Served whole on a platter lightly laced with a sweet sauce, it looks remarkably like a squirrel (don't worry, it isn't); some diners claim you can hear a squirrel-like chirping noise when you bite into the hot, crispy exterior. The snowy interior is delicately textured, the perfect foil for the crunchy crust. Dig in to this mouth-watering treat at Shang Palace, where the chef's surgical precision combines with artistic flair to make this dish Instagram-ready.
Photo courtesy of Suzhou Tourism
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4. Tongli Water Town
Dozens of photogenic water towns surround Suzhou, and Tongli is the most pristinely preserved. You feel as if you've stepped onto a movie set as you watch fishermen glide along the maze of canals in old-fashioned wooden boats, just as they have for centuries. Red lanterns are draped everywhere, adding festive flair. Hop in a water taxi and join the intoxicating atmosphere. Vendors line the cobblestone streets, hawking everything from homespun candies to traditional dresses. Bargaining is fine, so you've got permission to put your frugal foot forward and try to score a deal.
Photo by Allison Tibaldi
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5. Tiger Hill
The Tiger Hill Pagoda is China's very own leaning tower, giving Pisa a run for the off-center money. This 7-story octagonal brick pagoda began tilting more than 400 years ago. Today it leans slightly to the Northwest, creating a momentary magician's effect that is catch-your-breath startling. Apart from the leaning pagoda, Tiger Hill's picturesque paths are just right for a ramble, so plan for some unstructured time. It is also home to China's premier collection of Bonsai trees. The art of the Bonsai was born in this country and Tiger Hill is a love song to these diminutive delights. Watch the army of expert gardeners as they lovingly tend to these mini-masterpieces.
Photo courtesy of Suzhou Tourism
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6. Master of Nets Garden
This UNESCO World Heritage Site demonstrates Chinese garden designers' skill for synthesizing art, nature and architecture to create metaphysical masterpieces. Discretely located in the heart of downtown, you'll forget you are in a metropolis as soon as you walk through the entrance gate. Though fairly small, Master of Nets Garden mysteriously radiates an air of spaciousness, demonstrating how Suzhou's efficient gardeners exploit each inch of available space to create grand illusions. Visit in the evening and you'll be entertained with nightly performances of the dramatic Kunqu-style of opera (pictured).
Photo courtesy of Suzhou Tourism
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7. Silk-Making
China is synonymous with silk and Suzhou's silk enjoys a heavyweight reputation in today's international textile industry. What makes the local silk so prized? The worms are fed an abundant diet of mulberry leaves, so they are particularly well-nourished. You are what you eat (even if you're a worm) and these fortified little creatures produce silk of stellar quality. Visit the No. 1 Silk Factory and you'll get an up-close look at the entire silk-making process, from the cocoon stage to the finished product. Impulse buyers: there's a shop at the end of the factory tour, so leave room in your suitcase for a few silky accessories.
Photo by Allison Tibaldi
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8. Asia's Tallest Wheel
Trade ancient for high-tech when you ride the largest lake side Ferris wheel in China. Those without a hint of vertigo shouldn't miss the expansive view of the city from the wheel's top. Come Friday or Saturday evening and you'll be rewarded with a glitzy 30-minute light and water show that gives anything you might see on the Vegas Strip a run for its money. Located in the swanky neighborhood known as SIP, this thoroughly modern slice of town offers plenty of contrast to old-style Suzhou. Time spent here instantly deposits you back in the 21st century courtesy of high-end hotels, upscale eateries and pricey shops.
Photo courtesy of Suzhou Tourism