The picture of Orthodox monasteries perched atop sharp cliffs will likely come to mind when you hear of Meteora, Greece (and if you’ve never heard of the area, that’s pretty much what you need to know—it’s a UNESCO world heritage site made up of huge sandstone peaks on top of which monks built monasteries from the 11th century onwards). Unless you are a climber…then your focus will undoubtedly be on the crags themselves. Meaning “suspended in air,” Meteora is home to some of the world’s most distinct sandstone rock formations, which the monks have been climbing and inhabiting for centuries.
Meteora’s modern rock climbing scene was kick started by German climbers Dietrich Hasse and Heinz Lothaz Stutte, who first visited the region in the 1970s after seeing pictures of its peaks on a tobacco advertisement. Thanks in large part to Hasse and Stutte, the area now boasts over 800 bolted routes that draw climbers from around the world each spring and fall. If that weren’t enough, a few days here also affords visitors the opportunity to indulge in the best of what Hellenic culture has to offer. Not convinced? Read on for the five biggest reasons why Meteora is truly a climber’s paradise.
Breathtaking Balkans columnist Bridget Nurre Jennions is an Emmy-winning TV journalist and an international development specialist in Kosovo. Follow her travels on her blog, Bridgekrieg.
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Endless Climbing
So, let's start with the crags. The upside is that Hasse and Stutte wrote two detailed guidebooks on the routes they set. The downside (for us monolingual English speakers) is that they are mostly in German and Greek. Nevertheless, they offer great topographical illustrations and once you know the German names for the routes, there is a wealth of additional information available on various climbing websites.
Though the grades of most of the traditional and sport routes lie within a manageable 5.6 to 5.11, climbing in Meteora is not for the faint of heart. In an effort to make the least amount of impact on the rock in this spiritual and historic site, Hasse, Stutte, and their team took a very minimalist approach to placing bolts. In short, most climbs in Meteora are very exposed.
The area's most iconic climbs include, Kelch, which requires some bold bridging; the aptly named Spindel (pictured), or Phallus in the guidebook; and Traumpfeiler (Pillar of Dreams), the most scenic of several great climbs on Heiliger Geist (Holy Spirit).
By Bridget Nurre Jennions
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Adventures Beyond Climbing
Should climbing somehow become old hat, there are plenty of other outdoor activities to occupy your stay in Meteora—any of which can be easily arranged through local tour operator Visit Meteora. As you might expect, there are a variety of picturesque hiking and mountain biking routes that are often the best way to discover the many abandoned hermitage caves hidden around the region. One of the area's best hikes even includes a Via Cordata component for those who can't seem to leave the ropes behind.
Keep your eyes peeled along the way for one of Europe's last remaining Egyptian vultures that are native to the region. The rare bird is one of several making bird watching an increasingly popular activity in Meteora, especially during migration each spring.
By Bridget Nurre Jennions
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A Spiritual Rock Connection
In search of a peaceful place where they would be well protected from intruders, Orthodox monks first discovered this craggy paradise in the 11th century. Over the years, the church built 24 monasteries, of which six are still active and can be visited for a 3-euro fee. Though the bigger monasteries of Great Meteora and Varlaam have become overrun with tourists in recent years, it would be a shame to come to Meteora without seeing the breathtaking handiwork of centuries of rock climbing monks.
Luckily, there are ways to avoid the tour bus crowd. Stop into one of Visit Meteora's two local offices to pick up a map and some guidance on an exceptional afternoon hike through the forest around Drakospilia rock that lands you directly at the entrance to Varlaam. You can also opt for visiting one of the less frequented of the precariously placed monasteries, like St. Stephen's or Holy Trinity.
By Bridget Nurre Jennions
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Top-Notch Climber Fuel
Greece is known the world over for its delectable cuisine—and Meteora is no exception. With its highlands location, Meteora's food tends to skew more toward hearty meat-based dishes rather than the seafood delights often found on the coast, but with fresh local produce and olive oil abounding, there is no mistaking where you are.
For some of the best moussaka you've ever tasted, look no further than the family-owned Restaurant Meteora (pictured). If you're lucky, head chef Palmyra Gkertsou might even let you peek in the kitchen to select from the day's specials. Meteoron Panorama lives up to its name with some of the best views in Meteora and a wine selection that can't be topped. For the full local experience, you must visit Tavern to Paramithi where—after a glass of ouzo or two—you might be inclined to join in when the guitarist starts playing "Zorba's Dance."
By Bridget Nurre Jennions
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Budget-Friendly Accommodations
With average hotel prices starting around 60 euros a night, Meteora is much more affordable than many of Europe's other climbing hubs. Why not "splurge" on a room at the impressive Hotel Meteora, where you can enjoy the spectacular view from your room's balcony and a dip in the pool after a long day of climbing? Dellas Boutique Hotel is another charming midrange option
If you prefer a cozier feel, check out one of the various small guesthouses spread between Meteora's larger town of Kalambaka and the quieter Kastraki. With both offering communal kitchens, Alsos House is the best option for climbers on the Kalambaka side, while Thalia Rooms is the best in Kastraki. There are also seven campgrounds scattered across the area where you can pitch a tent under Meteora's famed spires.
By Bridget Nurre Jennions